May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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THE CURVE IS THE KEY
New York: The graceful femininity of Zac Posen’s woman knows no equal, reigning supreme as the queen of nipped-waist retro refinement. Always pulled together and impeccably coordinated, Posen’s F/W 13 was elegant and rich with a hint of primness in demure necklines and below-the-knee fluted hems, the silhouette expanded by structured duchess satin peplum tops in jewel tones with subtle cutout details. As much as the designer loves an hourglass shape, he relaxed his hand for Fall with a number of ruffled and cape back day dresses in chiffon or burnout velvet, pleasingly fluid counterparts to more baroque embroidered felt tops and peaked shoulder brocade sheaths. Closing the presentation on what he does best, Posen’s famous evening gowns centered on a corset-style top with a range of strap styles, while body-mapping folds and seams were a celebration of sensuous red carpet drama.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Hourglass / Curvy / Nipped waist / Fluted
Color: Burgundy / Camel / Rust / Coco / Russian blue / Navy / Olive / Tangerine / Plum / Gold / Canary / Cranberry / Deep raspberry
Key Items: Evening gowns / Dressy peplum tops / Fluted hem pencil skirts / A-line evening coats / Ruffled chiffon day dresses / Slim trousers / Nipped waist tweed jackets
Materials: Velvet / Chiffon / Duchesse satin / Fur / Silk / Burnout velvet / Cashmere / Lamé tweed / Brocade
Print + Pattern: Checks / Baroque swirls
Details + Trim: Fur collars / Peplums / Luxury embroidery / Layering / Chiffon cape backs / Flat bows
Accessories + Footwear: Dainty velvet pumps / Leather gloves / Opaque hosiery
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