May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: New Yorker Zac Posen brought his signature collection to Paris this season, claiming that Europeans respect his clothes more than his fellow countrymen. The French city’s 1920s heyday – and in particular, the legendary Folies Bergère – seemed to have been on Posen’s mind when he designed his coquettish collection. Racy lingerie looks – pieced lace, body stockings and foundation-type paneling – were a nod to the demimondaines of the era, while flirtatious feathers appeared for nearly every look and were even used for prints. Maribou feathers sprouted at hips and busts, and shorter versions dyed in an ombré pattern were used for lightweight versions of the “chubby” jacket. Slim pants and sharp-shouldered tweed jackets were among the few separates in the show; the last half focused on Posen’s strengths – cocktail and eveningwear. Collaged dresses were the highlight, mixing texture and color and showcasing the designer’s technical skill. While the lingerie looks were mostly throwaways, these more substantial pieces showed why Posen has such a loyal following; flattering and seductive, they seemed to celebrate womanhood.
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