May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Milan: Longtime creative director Alessandro Sartori has undoubtedly taken one of Italy’s most iconic companies to new heights since he became the first designer for Z Zegna in 2003. Now, as he heads off to Berluti, a men’s footwear brand that is part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, his last collection for the label was one of the hottest tickets at Milan Fashion Week. Safari-centric design details rocketed to the future with the up-to-the-minute fabric technology that we’ve come to expect from this designer. In the show notes, Sartori talked about creating a collection that focused on taking “a moment to enjoy more” — an essential part of the Italian approach to life. The easygoing sophistication of cropped carrot-leg pants with neat cuffs, paired with unconstructed patterned blazers, was the epitome of casual cool, and the quirky wallpaper-influenced prints used for woven shirts injected even more of the Roman Holiday attitude that has found its way into the week’s collections. The designer made that slightly retro aesthetic also feel modern and futuristic — certainly not an easy feat. —Michael Fisher
Color: Grecian sky blue / Navy / Banana yellow / Caramel / Mocha / Ivory / Khaki
Key Items: Safari jackets / Wide-leg sailor pants / Cropped double-breasted jackets / One-button suits / Button-front blousons / Breton striped knits / Regimental stripe blazers / Oversized rain coats / Boxy shorts / Crewneck sweaters / Openwork polo sweaters
Materials: Glazed hemp / Jersey / Leather / Egyptian cotton
Details + Trim: Contrast stitching / Jacket piping on one side of blazers / Self-belts / Asymmetric closures
Accessories + Footwear: Braided belts / Lace-up espadrilles / Color-blocked carryalls
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