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Z Zegna

ACTIVE TAILORING
Milan: The biggest debut in Milan was the first collection by Paul Surridge for Z Zegna. The designer, who has done stints at Raf Simons, where he was men’s design director, and Calvin Klein, was clearly determined to draw a line between himself and his predecessor, the avant garde tailor Alessandro Sartori, who was hired away last year by French luxury giant LVMH to become creative director of Berluti in Paris. The refreshing fusion of activewear and tailored clothing was a prime example of contemporary elegance at its best.
“It’s all about the psychology of dressing. The market is super-saturated with product so I wanted this collection to be redefined from its classic roots,” Surridge explained to the press, after a show that cleverly veered back and forth between strict elongated tailoring and futurist sports chic. Though visionary in its use of techno jersey and coated fabrics, and cut with somewhat exaggerated volumes and hoods, the collection was certainly wearable, perhaps hinting at a new incarnation for minimalism.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Black / Charcoal / Peacock green / Inky blue / Optic white / Burgundy / Olive

Key Items: Funnel-neck “tailored anoraks” / Half-zip knits / Cropped parkas / Double-breasted suits / Turtlenecks / Pieced knits / Four-button patterned sport coats / Self-belt trench coats

Materials: Techno jersey / Chintz flannel / Rubberized wool / Ponyskin

Details + Trim: Rubber zippers / Brushed copper buckles and zippers / Novel placement of jacket buttons / Drawstring waists / Funnel necks / Contrasting linings / Pieced construction

Accessories + Footwear: Leather driving gloves / Portfolio and iPad cases / Slim satin ties / Copper buckle belts / Log sole loafers

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