Yves Saint Laurent


Paris: Although rumors of his impending demise (a hanging guillotine, as a recent New York Times article so aptly put it) have been swirling around for the past few seasons, Stefano Pilati seems to be thriving under the pressure, delivering one of his best collections for Yves Saint Laurent last spring and continuing his winning streak into fall. He only had to look no further than the house’s rich archives for a fail-proof formula, particularly the 60s into the early 70s, Yves’ heyday. The collection started out with kicky skirts paired with egg-shaped jackets and worked into dropped-waist coatdressess. While black-and-white Prince of Wales checks and heavy gold chains gave the girlish silhouettes a grown-up polish, patent leather moto vets and shots of Yves Klein blue lent a fresh touch of youthful rebellion. Although silhouettes strayed towards the boxy and spare, the brand’s signature bishop sleeves added a bit of drama to sculptural dresses and jackets, eventually segueing into full-fledged 70s halterneck jumpsuits, flowy palazzo pants and an all-white pantsuit à la Bianca Jagger. The collection had a little bit of everything – something old, something new and all quite wearable – and should buy the designer at least a few more seasons.

Color: Black and white / Yves Klein blue

Key Items: Dropped-waist coatdress / Keyhole blouse / A-line wrap skirt / Cropped trousers / Kick-pleat skirt / Fur shrug / Structured baseball jacket / Biker vest / Halter jumpsuit / Minimalist cape / Kick-pleat palazzo pants

Print + Pattern: Prince of Wales check / Embellished chain links

Materials: Tweed / Crepe-back satin / Rabbit fur / Patent leather / Organza

Details + Trim: Heavy gold chains / Ostrich feathers / Rhinestones

Accessories + Footwear: Knee-high lace-up boots / Lady loafers / Chain belt / Patent leather gloves / Fur collar

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