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Yves Saint Laurent

RESTRAINED LUXURY
Paris
: Rumors of Stefano Pilati’s imminent ousting from Yves Saint Laurent have been swirling around for years now, and yet he keeps on hanging on by a thread – likely one spun with Teflon and a little bit of gold. Pilati has wisely chosen to stay true to the house’s archives in recent seasons, and spring was no exception. Supple silk gazar and organza served as the main medium, lending buoyancy to the house’s signature halter tops, bow blouses and jackets suspended in couture-like cocoons. A jewel-toned palette anchored the weightless masses, establishing an understated sense of luxury. The dress fabrics and forms were sensibly balanced with daytime separates like half-pleated culottes and suits crafted out of a subtly patterned jacquard. While a feeling of restraint hung through the air, Pilati let loose with two final gowns of georgette dusted with gold beads. Although the collection failed to provoke any strong feelings, positive or negative, it was a perfectly serviceable and sophisticated offering that should please the starlets in the front row and the investors for another season. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Straight / Languid ladylike

Color: Mint / Slate grey / Forest green / Indigo / Magenta / Sapphire / Teal

Key Items: Crossover halter top / Boxy double-breasted jacket / Slit pencil skirt / Cigarette pants / Swing coat / Half-pleated culottes / Evening track jacket / Gypsy skirt / Bow blouse

Print + Pattern: Baroque ornaments / Scarf prints

Materials: Gazar / Organza / Jacquard faille

Details + Trim: Flounces / Pleated panels / Blouson sleeves / Gold beads

Accessories + Footwear: Metallic ankle-strap platforms / Medallion chained belt / Clasped suede belt

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