May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Paris: Stefano Pilati didn’t have to dig too far back into the YSL archive for inspiration for his Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Yves Saint Laurent. It was apparent that Laurent’s 1977 Opium collection was at the forefront of Pilati’s thinking, producing looks that were updated enough to remain interesting to the modern consumer. Toning down the opulence to be more relevant to the times, Pilati still managed to include poignant touches of Orientalism through the collection’s jewel-tone palette, prints, and the frog closure embellishments (used most notably for a perfectly tailored leather dress). Belted waists, capes, box pleat skirts, tie-neck blouses, suitings, and luxe furs reinforced the 70s inflections in the collection. While not necessarily a step forward for Pilati, the collection did prove that he’s a designer who knows his house inside and out.
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