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Yves Saint Laurent

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DEMURE DANDY

Paris: Judging from the many Mod, equestrian, and schoolboy looks at the YSL show, it’s safe to say that designer Stefano Pilati was influenced by the Brits this season (although the designer himself claimed he was thinking about Proust). Slim, shrunken suits and retro shades of lime and tangerine conjured Carnaby street, while Edwardian riding jackets and overcoats recalled sportsman ensembles of earlier times. Dark grays and subdued vegetal tones complemented all the brights, and the resulting palette was sophisticated and appealing. Subtle Glen Plaid patterns added interest without competing with any of the themes, and young, fresh-faced models emphasized the collection’s overall youthful feel.

Colors: Navy / Forest green / Black / Charcoal gray / Muted vegetals / Tangerine / Lime / Bright white / Dutch blue

Key Items: Shrunken blazer / Tailored zip-up / Wool trench / Abbreviated overcoat / Hooded cloak / Slim overcoat / Knit turtleneck / Cropped slim trouser / Collarless button-front / Tuxedo shirt / Edwardian jacket

Materials: Cashmere / Winter suitings / Cotton shirtings / Silk shirtings / Flat sweater knits / Velvet

Details + Trim: Spread collars / Shawl collars / Club collars / Contrast plackets / Velvet collars and pocket trims / small, densely-placed buttons / Faux collar insets / Self-belts / Cuffed sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Rugged oxfords / Galoshes / Thick metal rings / Dandyish ankle boots / Skinny ties

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