Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Like Raf Simon’s emotional final bow at Jil Sander in Milan this season, Stefano Pilati’s recently announced departure from Yves Saint Laurent lent his Fall collection special gravitas as the end of an era. Even Pilati’s prints spoke of closure—many pieces came scattered with Calla lilies, a flower often associated with funerals. But despite a dark and typically rich palette, the mood was not dour, but defiant. Strong fitted silhouettes crafted from thick leather, satin and even chainmail spoke to a modern, feminine warrior ready to do battle in sleek jumpsuits, tapered trousers and shaved fur capes. Even Pilati’s chic gauntlet gloves befitted a Medieval falconer. For evening the outgoing designer was just as confident, concentrating on bringing the strong-shouldered pantsuit through cocktail hour with those ghostly lilies rendered in gold on a crisp white background.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fitted / Slim / Hourglass / Tapered / Cropped
Color: Bronze / Black / Raspberry / Forest green / White / Lavender / Silver / Gold / Bronze
Key Items: Slim jumpsuits / Hooded blouses / High-waist leather pants / Cropped jackets / Tuxedo capes / Leather tunic tops / Satin vests / Strong-shoulder suits / Chainmail dresses / Leather trench coats / Pencil skirts / Satin evening coats / Tuxedo dresses
Materials: Leather / Wool / Cashmere / Satin / Silk / Chainmail / Cotton / Fur
Print + Pattern: Calla lily prints
Details + Trim: Hoods / Leather trim / Oversized collars / Pintucking / Slits / Contrast cuffs / Piping
Accessories + Footwear: Leather gauntlet gloves / Wide leather belts / Sturdy pumps / Jeweled cuff bracelets / Choker necklaces / Slouchy leather boots
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