Yves Saint Laurent

Paris: Stefano Pilati understands how to modernize Yves Saint Laurent for the millennial customer. For Pre-Fall, he played soft against sleek, mixing stately collarless jackets and knife-pleat trousers with diaphanous, oversized sleeve poet blouses, or tucking silk scarves into slick leather dresses. Patterns worked best when they remained subtle, in particular a tone-on-tone leopard motif on a silvery wool overcoat, while restrained, slim silhouettes trumped the few big tunics and boxy jackets. Daytime separates and suiting were the primary successes of the collection, with their tailored construction overshadowing pleated, drop-waist dresses that seemed sloppy in comparison. As always, Pilati’s accessories deserved attention too, in particular the thigh-high boots which gave a legging effect paired with sheath dresses, while structured clutches were well-adorned with a weighty branded “Y” closure.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Long / A-line / Straight

Color: Black / Gunmetal / Camel / Cream / Sage / Caramel / Dove grey / Forest green / White / Russian blue

Key Items: Evening jumpsuits / Full leather skirts / Cropped trench coats / Short sleeve sheath dresses / Modern wool overcoats / Wide leg trousers / Silk poet blouses / Slim turtlenecks / Slick leather motorcycle jackets / Leather tunics

Materials: Leather / Wool / Silk / Fur / Chiffon / Cashmere knits

Print + Pattern: Animal print / Stripes / Checks

Details + Trim: Sequins / Fur trim / Contrast piping / Notch collars / Pleats / Leather trim / Bows / Ribbing

Accessories + Footwear: Long gloves / Rigid clutches / Thigh high boots / Oversize tote bags / Flat loafers / Cutout ankle boots / Leather belts / Silk scarves

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