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Yohji Yamamoto

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GOTHIC ROMANCE

With whited-out faces and teased hair that curved around the face, Yohji Yamamoto’s models looked a bit like The Cure’s Robert Smith, but the Goth hair and makeup distracted from the mostly lovely and wearable clothes. Yamamoto stepped away from outsize proportions this season, going more for a romantic Belle Epoque meets punk look. Boning and piping were an important design element, appearing in structured hourglass-shaped jackets and a sublime white shirt-dress with a zip closure. High-set puff shoulders gave additional shape to square necklines on tops, and his best skirts were a long, slim variety that wrapped and closed at the side. Experimenting with laser cutting, Yamamoto created tees that appeared to be bullet-riddled, but the technique worked best on a calico-printed fabric destroyed by tiny jagged cutouts. While not his most groundbreaking collection, Yamamoto again created a hauntingly beautiful, if darkly apocalyptic, vision.

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