Yohji Yamamoto


Paris:  Yohji Yamamoto presented a F/W 12 collection heavy on layering and rich in meaning. Influences spanned eras — Edwardian, Civil War, Gold Rush — and looks revolved around myriad reincarnations of traditional coat silhouettes ranging from military styles to classical morning coats and cutaway jackets to hefty blanket wraps. Bespoke details included double lapels, material-blocking, draped closures and slashed panels. Knit shawls haphazardly draped over Yamamoto’s signature oversized suits added even more volume, and a series of blanket wraps with whipstitched edges lent a rustic feel. The muted palette awakened with quirky accessories like neckties and boots in surprising pops of grass green and bright grape.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Layered / Boxy / Draped

Color: Black / Steel grey / Rusted red / Charcoal / Soot / Navy / Wine / Olive / Ochre

Key Items: Drapey Shawl / Roomy suit / Military jacket / Morning coat / Silk pants / Blanket vest

Materials: Wool suitings / Felted wools / Denim / Silk charmeuse / Heavy blanket wovens / Flat knits

Print + Pattern: Pinstripes /  Hazy plaids — oversized or subtle and monochrome

Details + Trim: Double lapels / Gold buttons / Fur trim / Contrast Piping / Military-style Patches / Piecing / Whipstitching

Accessories + Footwear: Derbies + Floppy Top Hats / Scarves, Neckties + Cravats / Colorful boots with ornate buckles

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