Yohji Yamamoto

Yamamoto’s S/S 12 collection expressed a dark romanticism via a preoccupation with sumptuous materials and masses of material. Outsize trains appeared on coats and dresses, while ruffles cascaded from dresses, and outsized hats opened and closed the show. In between came Hester Prynne frocks kitted out with elastic drawstrings and toggles, as well as similarly puritanical or even witch worthy garments. Yamamoto also showed interpretations of men’s trousers, jackets, and tuxedo shirts, perhaps in an attempt to describe the balance that underplays all great romances. This gendered balance was driven home via Yamamoto’s last look, which saw a “bride” attended by a “groom”—a female model in a tux with a pageboy hair—who romantically bore yet another outsized train in the perfect picture harmony.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Romantic voluminous

Color: Imperial purple / Ivory/ Slate / Lilac / Sand

Key Items: Shoulder cut out tunics / Twisted layered wedding gown / Bolero trouser suit / Full multi layered skirts / Billowy jersey dress with train / Long draped skirts

Materials: Jersey / Tweed / Soft suiting / Tulle / Leather / Velvet

Print + Pattern: Pinstripes

Details + Trim: Contrast stitching / Oversized ruffles / Shoulder cut outs / Draw strings / Pin tucks / Extended tail coats / Paper bag pleats / Corseted waists / Quilted underskirts / Draping / Unfinished hems

Accessories + Footwear: Ornate oversized hats / Canvas tennis shoes / Leather ankle boots / Jersey gloves

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