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Yohji Yamamoto

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SCROUNGED COMFORT


Paris: The models in Yohji Yamamoto’s F/W 11 show looked cozy in ultra-relaxed-fitting tailored wares and roomy intarsia sweaters. The oversized ensembles had a kind of wistfulness, suggesting a wraith-like youth clad in big brother’s cast-offs. Some elements, like an exaggerated trash bag waist, a patchwork pattern, and a row of unevenly placed buttons, pushed the ragtag aesthetic even further, conjuring the second-hand attire of a homeless eccentric. Rolled cuffs and slightly disheveled styling accentuated the look; accessories like pocket chains and newsboy caps punctuated each outfit.

Colors: Ashen grays / Dirty Taupes / Putty / Coal black / Fiery red / Peacock teal / Packing paper brown

Key Items: Oversized suit 3-piece suit / Intarsia sweater / Velvet coat / Paper-bag waist trousers / Wool overcoat / Trompe-l’œil waistcoat / Trench coat / Button-up shirt / Pleated pants

Materials: Coarse tweeds / Herringbone / Winter linen suitings / Ribbed sweaterknits / Cotton twill / Velvet

Details + Trim: Double-breasted cuts / Novelty doubled collars / Vinyl contrast lapels / Quirky self-belts / Cuffed pant legs / Unaligned button placement

Prints + Patterns: Pinstripes / Faux patchworks / Trompe-l’œil tweed and corduroy texture prints / Two-tone fair isle / Vintage erotica / Skeleton, cherry and lip motifs for intarsias

Accessories + Footwear: Pocket chains / Newsboy caps / Spectator brogue boots / Trainers / Trilby and fedora hats

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