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Yohji Yamamoto

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MASTER AT WORK

Paris: The masterful work of Yohji Yamamoto continues to inspire with its intensely cerebral exploration of proportion, seams and fashion history, and his deconstructions become ever more subtle and sublime. Yamamoto began his collection in familiar territory with his signature oversized proportions and wide pleats, and it became quickly clear that the designer was meditating on iconic coats like the trench and the pea, slashing at seams, adding asymmetrical panels of pleats, and finally chopping off collars and sleeves for flared dresses that recalled Dior’s New Look, a touchstone this season. The utilitarian sweater was next, its densely ribbed knit used for dresses, skirts and a jumpsuit with pockets mischievously placed near the knees. Some of Yamamoto’s most beautiful pieces were his coats, as is often the case. This season, the best of the batch were slim and straight with a kind of storm flap roughly cut in a shape that suggested a human embryo profile; the flap was tacked down on one side of the chest and extended to form a sleeve. Although the designer has weathered some tough times in the past year, with financial trouble and the closing of his New York store, his work remains as strong as ever, an offering of truly felt, wearable clothing that will stand the test of time.

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