May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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YOHJI FOR ALL
Paris: The influence of Yohji Yamamoto and his Japanese fashion compatriots has been rife on the F/W 13 runways, so it’s particularly interesting to see what the master himself has to show this season. This was Yohji for all occasions, from the youthful, opening T-shirt ensembles and the hint of gothic lolita in the cute little textured origami pieces to the mature, softened 80s suiting and relaxed evening dresses—draped, folded and twisted into body-contouring variations. Without driving home any one particular theme, the mostly-black collection—interrupted by a couple of classical outfits in shades of teal and a jolting trifecta of bright, color-block ensembles—walked the line between retro and futuristic. It held appeal for teenagers and grand dames alike, portraying a sense of off-kilter elegance that’s pure Yamamoto. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Asymmetric / T-shirt dressing / Tailored / Grecian
Color: Black / Bronze / White / Teal / Rust / Mint / Periwinkle / Cinnamon / Electric blue / Mulberry / Tumeric / Watermelon / Gray
Key Items: Deconstructed T-shirts / Button-down shirts and shirtdresses / Leggings / Double breasted suits / Origami pinafores & shift dresses / Cape-sleeve blazers / Tapered pants / Fringed cardigans, jackets & shirts / Bustier dresses / Fur trimmed capes / Tail-coats / Twisted, pleated dresses/ Three-piece suits / Flared pants / Frock coats
Materials: Jersey / knit jersey / Wool crepe / Cotton / Faux fur / Lace
Print + Pattern: Abstract pixels / Paint effects / Shibori dye / Pinstripe
Details + Trim: Cape sleeves / Deconstructed cut-away details / Slashed shoulders / Geometric texture / Knit fringing / Tails / Draped & trailing fabric / Twisting & pleating / Lace inserts / Contrast topstitching
Accessories + Footwear: Biker boots / Lace-up work boots / Platform sneakers / knee-high fabric boots with trim / Flat & platform lace-up Oxfords / Fabric sling bags & totes / Leather gloves with painted fingernail detail / Trilby hats / Floppy, fringed hats / Fabric headbands / Ties
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