Yohji Yamamoto

Paris: Yohji Yamamoto continued his tradition of showing precisely tailored, if unusual, garments that included kilts, full tartan suits, and overcoats that closed with bondage straps. Curiously, every model also sported a range of false moustaches, ranging from dramatically curled to big and brushy.  Yamamoto also played with scale as is his wont, showing double-breasted blazers in both cropped and overlong forms, as well as voluminous trousers and cardigans that hit below the knee. The collection was mostly black, but bold bursts of pink leopard print and tiger stripes, as well as eggplant suits, provided plenty of color. This collection, as with the designer’s career, largely seemed to be an investigation into scale and material, showing novel and unexpected ways to make men look good. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Unpredictable

Color: Jet black / Eggplant / Camel / Midnight blue / Olive / Lime / Butter yellow

Key Items: Double-breasted suits with bondage straps / Kilts and skirts / Tartan suit / Overlong cardigan

Materials: Chunky wool knits / Wool suiting / Fur / Silk / Shearling

Print + Pattern: Leopard and tiger print / Tartan / Stripes

Details + Trim: Rivets / Hidden zippers / Bondage straps

Accessories + Footwear: Patterned velvet fedoras / Tiger stripe bowlers / “Desert Trek” style  boots / Chelsea boots / Hiking boots / / Printed neckties / Knit scarf / Canvas trainers


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