Yohji Yamamoto

Paris: Utility was a key word for Yohji Yamamoto this season and as such his collection featured less trickery than usual, instead focusing on a sense of fluid functionality. The designer’s signature cutaway coats had a military feel, as did olive canvas field jackets in a subtle hourglass shape and voluminous twill dresses with unfinished hems. Softer chiffon and washed silk pieces were draped haphazardly around the body like crumpled parachutes embellished with hanging strings. Comfort was key throughout and many ensembles, such as tunics layered over cropped trousers and paired with low profile canvas sneakers, had a martial arts practicality. As basic as the collection seemed, Yamamoto’s fabrics were loaded with details, from a shredded floral silk to a dimensional mesh straight out of a paratrooper’s emergency survival kit.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Full / Voluminous / Asymmetric / Hourglass / Lean

Color: Flat dove grey / Khaki / Black / Coco / Olive / White / Crimson / Gunmetal / Pastel pink / Navy / Cobalt / Tan / Electric purple

Key Items: Full skirted gowns / Peaked shoulder jackets / Oversized canvas sheath dresses / Cropped silk trousers / Elongated silk shirting / Cutaway tail coats / Flight suits / Hourglass field jackets / Unfinished pajamas / Caftan dresses

Materials: Cotton canvas / Twill / Washed silk / Chiffon / Linen / Tissue thin jersey / Leather / Shredded silk / Tulle / Lurex / Netting / Tweed

Print + Pattern: Tonal florals / Miniature checks / Stripes

Details + Trim: Unfinished hems / Peaked shoulders / Contrast stitching / Tails / Draping / Drawstring waistbands / Cargo pockets

Accessories + Footwear: Low profile sneakers / Oversized sphere necklaces / Lace up ankle boots & loafers / Leather aviator hats / Veils / Mary-jane slippers / Statement pendants / Functional leather belts / Combat boots


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