Yohji Yamamoto


Paris: Yohji Yamamoto’s F/W 12 collection seemed more like an elevated extension of his sportier Y-3 line; the designer’s signature draped, cinched, and skewed silhouettes had an active-inspired feel this season, in a palette heavy on red and black. Jersey dresses clung asymmetrically to the body and featured cutout slits, hoods and shirttail hems. Capes and ponchos played a major role, whether cut from felted wool or fully-fashioned in chunky cableknit. The expected military elements were present in the form of slouchy suits, double-breasted closures and a saturated shade of khaki, but a surprising undertone of sexiness was slightly discernible: models walked the runway half-covering themselves in blanket-like shawls or robes, and satin-corseted dresses featured pasty-like tassel trims.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Wrapped / Clingy / Draped

Color:  Black / White / Navy / Red / Khaki

Key Items:  Draped jersey dress / Sweater poncho / Slouchy cropped pants / Wool cape

Materials: Jersey / Satin / Velvet / Chunky cable knits / Felted wool / Fur

Details + Trim: Hoods / Hi-Low hems / Wrapping / Slits / Color-blocking / Blanket stitch / Corset-like lacing / Tassels

Accessories + Footwear: Knit gloves / Leather jazz shoes, slip-ons, combat boots / Large shawls


Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.