Yigal Azrouël

New York: As a designer who usually embraces easy-going clothes and breezy layers, Yigal Azrouël surprised everyone with his S/S 12 a collection, one that was inspired by the concept of utility as well as archetypical uniforms. While a subtle active influence in the form of drawstring track pants and leather T-shirts balanced out the otherwise rigid lines and silhouettes, it was the intriguing juxtaposition of blue collar grit with white collar formality that really impressed. Pieced blazers that referenced an inside-out jacket blended in with contrasting, point collar shirts and crisp chinos. Outerwear was strong — the duffle coat got a techno makeover made in cotton with black rope toggles, a denim trucker jacket had leather sleeves, and a standard-issue parka was oversized with contrast taping. Overall, Azrouël’s showing of understated basics was styled in such a way as to provoke and ponder the future of contemporary menswear.  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Rigid but relaxed

Color: Yves Klein blue / Navy / Khaki / Black / Grey / Cherry red

Key Items: Scoop neck knits / Slim chinos / Jean jacket / Patterned shorts / Parkas / Woven T-shirts / Pieced blazers / Toggle coat

Materials: Leather / Cotton / Nylon

Details + Trim: Epaulets and utility pockets / Pieced construction / Rope toggles / Drawstrings / Detachable hoods / Exposed zippers / Webbed taping

Accessories + Footwear: Utility belts / Bucket hats / Wedge work boots

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