New York: Y-3’s creative director Dirk Schönberger knows how to give Yohji Yamamoto’s customers what they want, namely progressively sporty black outerwear and relaxed separates, but this season he provided a wider variety of options. Beginning with the label’s signature leathers, oversized parkas and wide-leg pants, the collection spun off into a more eclectic exploration of knitwear and pattern. Asymmetrical striped cardigans, nubby kangaroo pocket skirts and ikat trim added up to a very 90s aesthetic, especially when paired with pigtail buns and touches of leopard print. Although some of these ensembles veered into traveling raver territory, the presentation closed on a strong note by returning to smart elongated overcoats with fur trim accessorized with a subtle new take on the kaffiyeh scarf.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Hourglass / Relaxed / Draped / Oversized

Color: Black / Gunmetal / Silver / Cranberry / Avocado / Tangerine / Navy / Tan / Pumice / Beige

Key Items: Leather jackets / Parkas / Quilted full skirts / Draped shorts / Long overcoats / Bomber jackets / Tapered sweatpants / Chunky turtlenecks / Puffer jackets / Asymmetric knits / Sweater capes

Materials: Leather / Fur / Wool / Peruvian knits / Satin / Cashmere / Silk / Cotton / Twill / Canvas

Print + Pattern: Ikat / Animal prints / Stripes / Color blocking

Details + Trim: Gathering / Quilting / Epaulettes / Funnel necks / Hoods / Asymmetry

Accessories + Footwear: Kaffiyeh scarves / Leather gloves / Opaque hosiery / Sneakers / Ankle boots / Fur hats / Fedoras / Baseball caps / Printed silk scarves / Knit beanies / Ribbed gloves / Fur trimmed boots


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