New York: Each season the Y-3 show is one of the largest productions of the week, staged in a large space with numerous attendees and fanfare. For S/S 11, Yohji Yamamoto upped his game by hosting a live performance from The Duke Spirit on an elevated, mirrored platform above the runway, their energetic songs a perfect soundtrack for the collection’s homage to various subcultures of the past forty years. Grunge, goth, rock and hip hop all had their Y-3 interpretations, with easy to wear, athletic-infused pieces in new fabrics and patterns. Most interesting was a mottled forest green stretch velvet, which managed to appear regal and casual at the same time. Voluminous pants referenced Yamamoto’s designer label, while creative back details and thick metallic chain embellishments moved this collection beyond a strictly active categorization. Less effective was the addition of Yoko Ono’s text pieces embroidered on the back of jackets, spelling out phrases like “Open Your Eyes,” “Open Your Door,” and “Open Your Heart,” which seemed incongruous amid otherwise sleek looks.

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