New York: Perfectly-timed for Valentine’s Day, the theme of Yohji Yamamoto’s latest collaboration with Adidas was love, or rather, the lack thereof. Appropriately set to a melancholy Paul Simon soundtrack and amidst a dark and drizzly New York day, the collection depicted the shackling aspect of the L-word with sayings on sweatshirts such as, “Marriage – Love = Run” and Paul Simon’s Cosmopolitan headline gone wrong, “50 Ways to Leave Your Lover”. Jailhouse stripes on backwards anorak-style tunics and body-binding sweatshirts transmitted the message in subtler ways. Other elements were signature Yamamoto, albeit with a sporty bent. The designer displayed his distinctive proportion play with fitted cardigans and peacoats thrown over voluminous dropped-crotch sweatpants and asymmetrical plaid dresses. Capes were ingeniously styled after varsity jackets with cascading handkerchief hemlines. The color palette also maintained the somber mood, composed of mostly black and grey with pops of navy, hunter green and bright primaries. Ever the showman, the venerable designer came out in the end and participated in a choreographed fight with two models, the latter knocking him out. It may not have been Yamamoto’s lucky day, but as misery often breeds creativity, the clothes were better for it.
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