May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Dubbed “Analog vs. Digital,” Yohji Yamamoto’s F/W 13 Y-3 collection used traditional and even folky details for a quirky new look. Ruffled cape tops with peter pan collars had an Amish appearance as did double-breasted princess jackets fit with straightjacket closeness, while fishtail hem skirts and drawstring utility vests were pure Y-3 modernity. Yamamoto’s beloved voluminous trouser came in checked wool and knits looked surprisingly homespun, arriving as cropped sweaters with exaggerated bell sleeves or draped shawl scarves. In contrast, the designer’s more experimental pieces for the Adidas label addressed the “digital” side of the equation, tacking futuristic PVC panels onto skinny pants or wrapping the neckline of a floor-length coatdress in a cloud of shiny nylon.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Boxy / Slim / Asymmetric / Draped & layered
Color: Black / Navy / Graphite / Pea green / Chocolate / Khaki / Olive / Highlighter yellow / Safety orange
Key Items: Simple zip-up blouson jackets / Cropped cape-blouses / Below the knee skirts / Boxy princess jackets / Puffer vests / Bloomers / Full trousers / Knit turtlenecks / Cowl neck knits
Materials: Nylon blends / Bonded jersey / PVC / Leather / Padded wool / Cashmere / Felted wool
Print + Pattern: Plaid / Geometric repeats / Stripes
Details + Trim: Ruffles / Asymmetry / Peter pan collars / Drawstrings / Knee patches / Quilting / Gathering / Pleating / Ribbing
Accessories + Footwear: Geisha platform sneakers with contrast soles / Stretchy gloves / Sculptural moon boots / Graphic fringed scarves / Contrast sole loafers / Beanie hats / Intarsia knit fingerless gloves / Opaque knit hosiery / Platform ankle boots
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