Who Dunnit’ at Chalayan

Paris: Ever the storyteller, Hussein Chalayan looked to the film “Murder on The Orient Express” to tell his tale for fall. Shoulders panels were chopped away on faux-fur jackets and camel coats – tailoring came in loose cuts, slashed and often disfigured- an abstracted idea of a vicious attack. Direct references to the film were made in the fabrications of the collection: dining car upholstery and snowy mountain jacquards pointed to the snowstorm that stopped the train on the night the victim was dispatched. Embroidered figures on halter-neck dresses represented mug shots – Poirot’s line up of murderous suspects. Leather dungarees, combats and monkey boots were Chalayan’s nod to the mechanics of the train and added a dark urban edge to the collection. For his grand finale, Chalayan presented a handful of blind-cum-curtain gowns, detached at the knee and held together with curtain loops. A killer collection with a whimsical twist. – Anna Ross

Theme: Who dunnit’

Key Items: Sleeveless coat / Cropped wide leg pant / Fur trimmed dinner jacket / Pleated tunic / Cape / Leather Dungarees / Detached full length gown

Colour: Camel / Jet black / Stony grey / Blood red / Gold leaf

Materials and Trims: Wool melton / Faux Fur / Leather / Silk noil / Cotton Poplin / Silk Habotai / Silk Chiffon / Oversized sequins

Print and Pattern: Snowy mountain jacquard / Upholstery / Abstracted portraiture

Accessories and Footwear: Neo-cloche hats / Monkey Boots / Buckled clogs

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