Jul 04, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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NEW YORK…The ’90s were considered to be the decade of Minimalism (black Prada backpacks anyone?) but beneath the feathers, fringe, crystal and transparent layers of chiffon, it has been a predominant theme of this one too. The design aesthetic of Raf Simons at Jil Sander and Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein Collection has remained basically unchanged since their eponymous predecessors were at the helm. In recent years they have been joined by Narciso Rodriguez in championing the cause for deft tailoring, clean lines and meticulous attention to detail. His collection for fall/winter 08/09 followed its regular path up to a point while adding an element of softness to the architecture and femininity to the silhouette that felt new. This added up to egg-shaped volume on outerwear and jackets on top of light, often trasparent layers beneath and a color palette that would have been overly austere save for pops of bright orange.
The story at Calvin Klein Collection was no less austere. Models with slicked back hair and barely-there makeup wore tailored looks in various shades of grey. Costa is yet another New York designer showing the oversized tuxedo style “boyfriend” jacket worn over a shorter length skirt. A-line skirts flared below structured jackets with a more modified version of the peaked shoulder seen at Margiela and YSL last year. After last season’s dress-fest, frocks were few and far between, even for ‘red carpet’ occasions, but what there was looked stunning. The accordion pleated metallic gowns at the end of the show were show-stoppers.
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