Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
Big data meets consumer insights. Experience WGSN.
Mar 12, 2015
Arguably – and perhaps surprisingly – the most commercial of all the fashion weeks, Paris ended on a high note Wednesday as two of the biggest names closed the show. Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton and the team at Miu Miu sent out looks women will love to wear and which will also be fun to wear.
They shared some points in common but both stuck to a vision that fitted each label perfectly. Both played with shine, both took luxe fabrics but made them look a fake (furs, croc-look leather, snake). Both kept skirts lengths short and emphasised the shoulderline.
And the differences? At Vuitton, massive fake-looking fur coats and jackets (either in Arctic white, deepest black or leopard) meant the label is fully prepared for a cold winter – and perhaps for Russian customers to start buying heavily again if that country’s economy improves.
Perhaps more importantly given that this is largely an accessories house, they came with tough cases, oversized metallic versions of the label’s popular petite malle mini trunk bags. Sci-fi they may have looked, but they were inspired by archive pieces.
The dominant silhouette was skinny (as it has been in many big name Paris shows) with skinny black pants, close-cut dresses with corset details, skinny pantsuits, and slim mini skirt suits in the house check. Also key was a new ‘pagoda’ detail on the hem (sleeves and body) of the collection’s knits. We also saw leather versions of the high-rise jeans that have been selling well already, leading Style.com’s Nicole Phelps to say that “in straight-up shoppability terms, this collection looks primed to be Ghesquière’s most accessible so far.”
Over at Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada’s team took the label whose sales are growing faster than big sister Prada and went for a vintage feel. It had a retro edge but nothing as mundane as going head first into a single decade.
Instead we got plenty of items and details the high street will love. Snakeskin edges and pockets on heritage wool coats and skirts, very fake-looking mock croc miniskirts and short pinafores in searing brights, blouses with giant yoke ruffles, open edge peplums attached to skirts, leopard print coats, giant shoe buckles, contrast colour piping on ultra-pointed shoes, and oversized chandelier earrings and necklaces.
And the verdict? Everyone agreed it was fun but WWD perhaps summed it up best: “Each look was put together with the giddy vigour of a young, fashion-hungry girl who just blew her allowance at a vintage store, the kind of spree that makes you feel alive.”
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