VPL by Victoria Bartlett – S/S 2012

New York: Although revered and hugely influential in lingerie circles, Victoria Bartlett is more than just an underwear designer. The brainy conceptualist has raised the game on intimates and swimwear design and built an entire lifestyle brand that dresses the hippest of gals inside and out. Often basing her collections off scientific ideas, the designer this season was inspired by a subject New Yorkers may be able to relate to as of late: tectonic plates. The geological theme took shape in compelling plays on dimension that pitted raised surfaces with recessed and shredded sections with tightly knit. Eye-catching prints depicted other natural forces like volcanoes, storm clouds and lightning. While a few pieces of lingerie could be seen peeking out from active-inspired leggings and jackets, swimwear provided the main canvas for Bartlett to explore the human anatomy – a recurring refrain in her work. Elastic bands hinted at skeletal structures, while built-out hips and armored shoulders probed the possibilities of the human musculature. Bartlett’s signature palette of desert nudes received a refreshing splash of fluorescent seafoam and coral that, along with healthy doses of neoprene, captured the surf wave currently sweeping over fashion. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Pegged / Strong shoulders / Built-out hips

Color: Crème de menthe / Neon coral / Olive / Bone / Sand

Key Items: High-waisted bikini / Slouchy cropped sweater / Pegged legging / Track jacket / Mid-thigh bike shorts

Materials: Neoprene / Shredded sweater knits / Wet-look nylon

Prints + Patterns:  Volcanic landscapes

Details + Trim: Exposed zippers / Mesh insets / Draped open backs

Accessories + Footwear: Neoprene sandals from LD Tuttle

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