VPL by Victoria Bartlett

New York: After years of occupying one of the earliest time slots on Saturday in a space about as far west as you can travel in Manhattan, Pier 59, Victoria Bartlett opted for a more manageable hour, a few blocks inward, this season. The change in venue seemed to signify a shift in design direction, as well. A mastermind of utility and mechanics, Bartlett adopted the theme of “Disjoin + Rejoin” this season, drawing inspiration from the architecture of John Lautner and Oscar Niemeyer. The exercise of configuring flat segments into three-dimensional form ushered in a more tailored quality for the brand known for active-bent apparel and lingerie. The sporty references – sweats, tracksuits, football jerseys – remained; however, structured pieces were among the strongest, with a robe-inspired coat and pegged trousers being standouts. Meanwhile, cardigan-style tops and easy straight skirts were about as demure and ladylike as Bartlett gets. In this case, change is good.Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Easy slouch / Padded shoulders

Color: Cranberry / Mandarin orange / Taupe / Chocolate / Purple eyeshadow / Ultraviolet / Camel / Putty / Graphite / Apricot cream

Key Items: Track trouser / Linebacker tee / Cardi-top / Leather sweatshirt / Leather leggings / Robe-coat / Halter-neck sports bralette / Slouchy straight skirt / Cocoon coat / Inside-out tank / “Teddy bear” vest / Fur sheath

Materials: Jersey / Close-shaven fur / Foiled and ciré treatments / Perforated leather / Silk crepe / Ponte / Fleece

Print + Pattern: “Disjointed” plaids / Painterly stripes

Details + Trim: Shoulder pads / Piping / Steel sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Shoes by LD Tuttle / Jewelry by Orly Genger / Bags by Fleabag / Color-blocked Chelsea boot / “Foot wrap” sneakers / Portfolio clutch / Mini gym bag


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