Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: From “suspension” to “tectonic”, Victoria Bartlett always bases her collections off extremely physical ideals, using a string of visceral descriptors and imagery to express the theme. Fall’s word? “Manipulation.” Inspired by dancer Michael Clark’s transgressive choreography for Mmm, Bartlett set out to capture the tension between control and abandon in wearable form. Silhouettes juxtaposed stretch fabrics pulled taut and rigids hanging loose and languid – all in various textures, transparencies and luminosities. Garments like draped sack dresses and armor-like jackets were engineered from the inside out, the exposed inner-workings serving as metaphor for the human anatomy. Bartlett’s signature lingerie comprised her usual series of finale looks. There, the concept played out in sweater-knit bodysuits, boyshorts and shrugs featuring engineered patterns that mimicked the skeletal structure and musculature. Bartlett is a designer more concerned about the process – the mechanics, tactility and movement of fabric – than the finished product; however, as in this collection, the results are somehow always profound, provoking and uniquely beautiful. – Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Draped asymmetrical / Fitted + fluid
Color: Wheat / Plum / Bourdeaux / Oyster / Turmeric
Key Items: Surplice blazer / Wrap skirt / Cowl neck tee / Anorak blouse / Collarless blazer / Sack dress / Short-sleeved varsity jacket
Materials: Silk jersey / Coated nylon / Felt / Leather / Washed silk / Mesh / Glazed micro / Engineered knits
Details + Trim: Draped overlays / Drawstrings / Kimono sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Mayer/Genger jewelry / Baggy booties
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