5 hours ago | By Lizzy Bowring
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STRETCH + FOLD
New York: Starting with the concept of stretch and fold, Victoria Bartlett crafted a collection that explored the tension between aggressive and soft materials and forms, as both base and techno fabrics were draped to stretch across or constrict at various points along the body. True to her aesthetic, the collection felt eerily post-apocalyptic yet possessed a scientific base with its visual references to anatomy and alchemy – reinforced by such descriptors in the run of show as “dissection”, “vertebrae”, “levitation”, “cincture” and “scapula.” As always, the intimate apparel was a standout, as Bartlett updated her hugely influential color-blocked bras and briefs with sponge-y latex panels (a play on the recent fetish trend), intersecting “surgical bands”, and a compelling mix of arid nudes with lush jewels.
Color: Nude / “Fake tan” / Rust / Bronze / Vivid orange / Stone / Blue steel / Carnation pink / Bordeaux
Key Items: Draped tee / “Bandage” skirt / Origami pencil skirt / Crossover capris / Cargo trousers / “Bi-fractional” leggings / Kimono coat / Zip-front cardi-coat / Track jacket / “Cage” bra and hipster / Shirred-front high-waisted brief / Pieced bodysuit
Materials: Metallic micro / Latex and neoprene / Lacquered performance nylon / Over-boiled wool felt / Lamé cloqué / Athletic mesh / Techno satins / Threadbare jerseys / Rust-look heathered yarns/ Slubby sweater knits
Details + Trim: Color blocking / Wrapped details / Armor-like shoulders / Exposed zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Chunky rubber jewelry from Mayer/Genger and Brian Crumley / LD Tuttle foldover boots / Velcro-fastened oxfords / Latex gloves / Extra long “infinity” scarves
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