May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Although the collection has been around for several years, VPL by Victoria Bartlett has remained somewhat of an underground favorite among the fashion-savvy downtown set. It is Victoria’s secret no more, however – the brand’s stature has grown exponentially in recent seasons, with its influence showing up in ready-to-wear, intimate apparel and activewear. This season, Bartlett explored the idea of suspension – a key factor in the support and sport arenas. The theme unfolded in both literal – straps of all kinds, from knotted cords to grosgrain ribbons – and conceptual ways – sheer fabrics pieced with “floating” opaque insets and built-out glass necklaces. Bartlett also employed an arsenal of dress fabrics in addition to her go-to techno nylons and jerseys. Supple organzas were worked into surprising floaty full skirts and shift dresses covered with paint splatters and scribbles inspired by Egyptian artist Ghada Amer. Sporty anoraks and vests received a luxurious update with pieced sueded and satin silks that projected a parachute-like lightness. Bits of her signature undergarments appeared as part of the clothes, like a one-shoulder bralette shot through with a bolt of lime green and a body-hugging dress inspired by men’s briefs. The always-directional foundationwear, along with new fabrics and silhouettes, made for one of VPL’s most wearable and versatile collections to date – yet one that still retained the innovation and edgy appeal for which the label is known.
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