Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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New York : Victoria Bartlett picked up right where her spring show left off, taking the concept of deconstruction even further in her lengthy fall show. Look by look, Bartlett revealed the inner workings of her design process. Hems were left raw, misplaced pins held together jackets, and panels of cotton jersey, stretch satin and lamé lay haphazardly, as if the designer forgot to finish or changed her mind mid-dress and decided to start a new one. Dream-catcher necklaces, leather spats and macramé trims put the clothes in the context of some kind of futuristic tribe, with liquified rust textures on tunic dresses serving as a post-apocalyptic Navajo print. For all the intellectual posturing, the sporty underwear and knitwear that the designer is known for remained a focal point. Plush cable knit sweaters topped day bras and briefs that were color-blocked with autumnal golds and greens. One sweater achieved a soft architectural shape through the clever arrangement of a rib knit in weft, warp and bias directions. Curved panels of powdery cosmetic tones were patched into aerodynamic body suits that one could picture the Olympic team in the year 2030 wearing.
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