Elegantly (Under)stated

New York: For her VPL Pre-Fall collection, designer Victoria Bartlett showed her trademark underwear as sportswear-influenced pieces. This collection wasn’t Bartlett’s typical standard-issue though, as many of her looks took her louche influences into a more elegant territory. Standouts included delicate knitwear that had a chain-mail quality and a ruched parachute nylon update on the harem pant. As always, many of Bartlett’s garments possessed what the designer calls the “architectural quality of vintage underwear”, updated with deconstructionist details and exaggerated silhouettes. Nude color-blocked leggings and sweaters with bare shoulders were for the label’s devotees, while a cropped cocoon jacket with rounded sleeves and a fine-gauge scoop-necked sweater might attract a new breed of followers. Bartlett’s color palette stayed low-key and minimal, with her signature bra offered in new colors; there were muted neutrals, heathered greys and the occasional flash of red. VPL’s first boutique, opened just last month in New York City, is a sure sign that the brand is becoming a go-to for women seeking cool, easy separates that are at once simple and distinctive.

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