Sep 19, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Vivienne Westwood always manages to combine ethnic and historical references and make them into something fashionable. For F/W13 the show notes stated: “Influences come from the 4 corners, historical, ethnic, structure and ‘flou’.” The collection was a mélange of sparkling jacquards, tribal prints, folkloric embroidery, intarsia knits and crochets. The Medieval influence was evident with large wool blanket coats, exaggerated hoods and felted knits. There were also more wearable styles, like well-tailored suits, plush woolen overcoats and skirt suits with neat jackets. Few know how to construct garments like Westwood; she is a genius with drapes, folds and cutting techniques, and proved it once again with simple white shirtdress in silk crepe that accentuated every line of the female body. “When you go back in time you also enter the future,” said Vivienne post show. The show ended with cascading feather sleeves, a delicate transparent take on medieval gown and a white bridal dress with a long train. Afterwards, Vivienne and husband Andreas Kronthaler walked all the way down the runway, greeting the press. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Menswear / Layered / Medieval / Ethnic
Color: Navy / Grey / Wine / Brown / Beige / Skin / Blush / Warm red / Peacock / Ecru / Vanilla / Black
Key Items: Blanket coat / Well-tailored suit / Oversized belted menswear wrap / Knitted brief-incorporated skirt / Draped belted shirtdresses / Draped georgette silk gowns
Materials: Wool flannel / Tapestry fabrics / Melton wool / Boiled wool / Crepe silk / Crochet
Print + Pattern: Ethnic motifs / Blanket plaids / Paisley / Intarsia
Details + Trim: Feathers / Metallic yarns / Leather binding / Folkloric embroidery / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: High platforms with architectural heels for pumps, boots and lace-ups / Furry boots / Fez hats / Decorative large tassels and ethnic jewelry / Faux gloves
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