Mar 31, 2017 | By Catarina Lambranho
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Paris: Goga Ashkenazi’s work for Vionnet follows the formula of the house founder without sacrificing modern updates, which for F/W 13 meant futurism by way of the Eighties. Wrapping, folding and contrast linings were the primary techniques, resulting in black folded front jackets with peekaboo swatches of mint, wrap skirts with dimensional flaps and even fur sheath dresses patchworked from varied textures. Tapered trousers cropped at the ankle came in leather with volume at the hip, while waists were nipped throughout the presentation with wide corset belts. Ashkenazi’s evening gowns had a pleasant hint of 80s Mugler, their long, fluid lines draped and tucked from both metallic chainmail mesh and weighty bonded fabrics.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Tapered / Slim / Cropped / Wrapped / Asymmetric
Color: Black / Mint / Periwinkle / Navy / White / Gold / Dove grey / Highlighter yellow
Key Items: Wrap jackets with folded fronts / Cropped & tapered trousers / Refined knit tops / Wrapped pencil skirts / Dimensional ribbed knits / Draped silk dresses / Stretch leggings / Batwing sleeve tops / Fur sheath dresses / Single sleeve gowns
Materials: Wool blends / Leather / Stretch knits / Cowhide / Ribbed knits / Silk / Fur / Astrakhan fur / Metallic chainmail mesh
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Colorblocking / Dots
Details + Trim: Contrast linings / Contrast lapels / Ribbing / Zippered cuffs / Batwing sleeves / Perforation
Accessories + Footwear: V-cut Mary-Jane pumps / Over-the-knee high heeled boots / Corset belts / Ankle boots / Portfolio cases / Teardrop frame bags / Strappy cage sandals
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