May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: The Croce sisters, Rudy Paglialunga, Sophia Kokosalaki, Marc Audibet. These are a few of the designers who have cycled through the house of Vionnet in recent seasons. It has been something of a revolving door of late, but perhaps Goga Ashkenazi will bring some stability. The Kazakhstan-born billionaire bought the company last year and installed herself as the label’s designer. Her first collection, for S/S 13, drew mixed reviews, but this season’s offering looked stronger. Asymmetry and elegant draping, key elements of Madeleine Vionnet’s work, were present here, as was her celebrated “square dress.” Ashkenazi also included color blocking and wide horizontal stripes that made the mood more buoyant. The owner/designer is currently snapping up as many original Vionnet sketches and pieces as she can find, which should help her to build the brand in a mindful way. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Asymmetrical / Hourglass / Rounded / A-line
Color: Black / Navy / Lemon / Raisin / Pale blue / Cream / Grey / Lipstick red / Teal
Key Items: Striped shorts suit / Peplum jackets / Draped dresses / Square dress / Fur coats
Materials: Matte wool suitings / Chiffon / Taffeta / Fine-gauge yarns / Fluid silks / Fox fur / Astrakhan / Felted wool / Fine jersey / Bonded leather
Print + Pattern: Wide stripes / Concentric circles / Color blocking
Details + Trim: Peplums / Waist ties / Beading / Draping / Contrast trim / Laser cutouts / Accordion pleats / Overlapping panels / Handkerchief hemlines / Asymmetrical hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Beaded bracelets / Wide fabric belts / Over-the-knee boots / Pointy-toe pumps / Peep-toe two-tone booties
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