May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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SAFETY IN DRAPING
Paris: The house of Vionnet has been through many staff changes in recent years, culminating in the debut of the label’s new owner and creative director Goga Ashkenazi. Easing into her role and working with a team of designers for S/S 13, Ashkenazi decided to play it safe. Long and lean column dresses were flattering, skimming the body and emphasizing the waist via strategic colorblocking and cutouts. Draped Grecian gowns were less interesting, hewing to a well-known formula of asymmetry and gathering. But trouser ensembles brought out the best from Ashkenazi and her slouchy wide leg pants paired with bib front tuxedo shirts, racer back tanks and cutaway tunics hinted at a more modern (and hopefully more stable) future at Vionnet.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Long & lean / Slim / Draped / Slouchy
Color: White / Black / Poppy
Key Items: Full fluid trousers / Draped tops / Tuxedo suiting / Column dresses / Racer back tanks / Silk tank dresses
Materials: Lightweight jersey & silk / Sheer embroidered chiffon
Print + Pattern: Tonal florals / Color blocking
Details + Trim: Draping / Embroidery / Cutouts / Gathering / Asymmetry
Accessories + Footwear: Gold peep toe pumps
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