Vionnet Cruise/Resort 2013


New York: Twin sister design team Barbara and Lucia Croce had a tough act to follow at Vionnet. The previous designer, Rodolfo Paglialunga, was beginning to build momentum there and to gain a following when it was announced early this year that the Croce sisters would be taking the helm. Their first collection, for F/W 12, felt heavy and serious, lacking the playfulness that Paglialunga brought to his designs. Fortunately, they shook off that heaviness for their C/R 13 collection, which felt lighter and more confident. Sheers were a key element and were used for elegant tunics and dresses cut on the square, a Vionnet signature. Even leather pieces, like a short-sleeved top that was gathered at the front, felt featherweight. The Croces included several pieces made from micro pleated silk, whose texture enhanced the simple shapes. This season’s vast improvement makes one anxious to see what the sisters will do next. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: A-line / Long + languid / Columnar

Color: White / Whisper pink / Tangerine / Bordeaux / Vivid purple / Caramel / Goldenrod

Key Items: Sheer tunic / Gathered leather top / Micro pleated separates

Materials: Chiffon / Tulle / Micro pleated silk / Cotton twill / Soft silks

Print + Pattern: Large-scale floral / Texture prints / Stripes

Details + Trim: Layering / Handkerchief hemlines / Micro pleats / Gathering / Layering

Accessories + Footwear: Large envelope clutches / Long shoulder bags / Large totes / Plastic bangles / Pointy-toe mid-heels / Strappy sandals


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