Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Folding, pleating and draping was the foundation of Barbara and Lucia Croce’s first collection at Vionnet, an origami sensibility that informed their modern tunics, dresses and outerwear. A vaguely Asian mood suffused standouts like a patterned bronze zip-up top, stand-up collar jacket and black and white coat with kimono sleeves. Dresses were also simple but sophisticated, and long sleeved sheaths were embellished with emerald sequins or a stark jigsaw graphic. The designers included several items which projected a quiet edginess, such as a pleated oxblood leather tunic layered over matching skinny pants, as well as dresses cut to be worn backwards. Only one piece broke the presentation’s serenely fluid lines; a few pairs of cropped wide trousers whose only advantage was showing off Vionnet’s appealingly sturdy pumps and high-heeled loafers.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Relaxed / Boxy / Draped / Fitted
Color: Black / White / Emerald / Navy / Chocolate / Olive / Oxblood / Bronze / Royal blue
Key Items: Simple silk blouses / Cropped wide-leg trousers / Fur tunic tops / Loose long sleeved sheaths / Fitted double breasted blazers / Draped trench coats / Tunic shirts / Fur overcoats
Materials: Silk / Fur / Brocade / Leather / Wool / Netting / Chiffon
Print + Pattern: Abstract dots / Jigsaw pattern / Stripes / Abstract fractals / Abstract florals
Details + Trim: Sequins / Peplums / Standup collars / Colorblocking / Contrast piping / Pleating / Draping / Quilting / Embroidery
Accessories + Footwear: Pendant necklaces / Cone heel pumps / High heel loafers / Folded portfolio clutches / Ankle strap sandals / Frame bags / Enamel collar necklaces / Gold cuff bracelets / Enamel evening clutches / Satin ankle boots
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