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ALL GLAM ON THE WESTERN FRONT

Paris: Vionnet’s pre-fall collection for 2011 was all about screen-siren 30s and 40s glamour, accented with touches of Western flare, like fringed trims and desert-colored prints. Recalling shades of Marlene Deitrich, the collection showed many strong-shouldered, dramatic silhouettes with geometric patterns, including color-blocked knee-length dresses, brightly colored satin skirts and bombler jackets, chiffon sequin dressses, and show-stopping floor-length knit gowns. A recurring feather pattern accented with earthy oranges, greens, and purples emphasized the Western influence, as did tassel belts, poncho shapes, and a liberal use of fur. The culmination of the marriage between Hollywood and the Western Frontier came with a halter-neck bronze lamé gown accessorized with a large fringed shawl-like wrap. Rodolfo Paglialunga deftly pulled off a combination that could have been fraught with sartorial red flags; instead, he achieved a collection that was long on sophistication and short on Mae West.

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