Marc Jacobs culls from an incongruous range of vintage influences- Victorian mourning dress, ’20s-era Raoul Dufy via Paul Poiret, ’30s hollywood and ’80s surf culture- for an irreverent S/S 14 collection full of surprises.
What do Victorian dress, Raoul Dufy via Paul Poiret, ’30s maxi gowns and ’80s surf culture have in common? At first thought [apart from this writer’s wardrobe, minus the Dufy + Poiret], not much. Enter Marc Jacobs’ S/S 14 collection- ah, yes! There we go. This seemingly incongruous batch of inspiration sources combined for a striking, unexpected collection from American (and French, for that matter) fashion’s ever-irreverent poster boy, yielding a succession of eccentric pieces that perfectly melded Raoul Dufy’s inimitable block-print motifs of the early ’20s, trims borrowed from Victorian mourning dress, lovely languid ’30s dresses befitting a star from the l’âge d’or of Hollywood, and cool surfer boardshorts. Jacobs told NYT critic Cathy Horyn, “Jamie [Bochert, model] is my muse: she always comes in wearing these beautiful old clothes,” and Style.com writer Nicole Phelps, “I wanted it to be about women who come to work in a Victorian gown and birkenstocks.” That’s a sentiment we can get behind. Minus the birkenstocks part.
Some of the most interesting pieces were those which spanned 100 years: sweatshirts adorned with braiding and passementerie looked particularly, well, de rigeur.
Below, a series of our favourite looks accompanied by some light vintage food for thought.
L to R: Marc Jacobs S/S 14; Paul Poiret’s famous “La Perse” coat, 1911; “La Perse” coat via the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
L to R: Marc Jacobs S/S 14; Raoul Dufy printed linen textile sample c. 1920, Metropolitan Museum of Art; Quicksilver advertisement featuring Lance Mountain, 1988; Quiksilver ad, 1980s.
L to R: Marc Jacobs S/S 13; Raoul Dufy textile design c.1920s; Lace dress, 1930s.
L to R: Marc Jacobs S/S 14; Victorian-era jacket illustration; Victorian blouse detail via Etsy; Edwardian swimwear illustration.
L to R: Marc Jacobs S/S 14; 1930s dress advertisement, Cheney; Les Frères Séeberger, 1930s.
L to R: Marc Jacobs S/S 14; “La Parisenne,” 1883, by Charles Alexandre Giron; Victorian dress via Metropolitan Museum of Art.