May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Duality and reflection were Viktor & Rolf’s obsessions for S/S 13 and they presented looks vertically split in half—one side white, one side black. The mirrored lamé finish of accordion pleated skirts and sashes suggested self-observation, as did swirled Picasso faces. Elsewhere these themes were less evident, as the designers fell back on their signature boudoir references with satin skirts tied at the waist and chiffon column dresses. Several interesting new styles showed up, like leather motorcycle vests trimmed with ruffled peplums, but outerwear was bulky and odd, constructed from poufs of tulle. In the end, Viktor & Rolf were best at their most literal, closing the presentation with a sophisticated and simple strapless gown embellished with a fractured mirror appliqué. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Long & lean / Fitted / Column
Color: Black / White / Silver / Lemon / Tangerine / Peach / Pastel pink / Ice blue / Plum
Key Items: Carwash fringe skirts / Pleated column gowns & floor length skirts / Leather motorcycle vests / Draped silk blouses / Fitted t-shirts / Long sleeved pointelle knit tops
Materials: Lamé / Chiffon / Tulle / Satin / Leather / Silk / Jersey / Pointelle knits
Print + Pattern: Floral silhouettes / Bow graphics / Branded message graphics / Faces
Details + Trim: Bows / Sharp ruffles / Strong shoulders / Pleating / Appliqué / Pleated peplums / Mirror sequins / Sashes / Sequins / Satin patch pockets
Accessories + Footwear: Platform sandals / Cuff bracelets / Box clutches / Rhinestone bow necklaces
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