Viktor & Rolf

Paris: Duality and reflection were Viktor & Rolf’s obsessions for S/S 13 and they presented looks vertically split in half—one side white, one side black. The mirrored lamé finish of accordion pleated skirts and sashes suggested self-observation, as did swirled Picasso faces. Elsewhere these themes were less evident, as the designers fell back on their signature boudoir references with satin skirts tied at the waist and chiffon column dresses. Several interesting new styles showed up, like leather motorcycle vests trimmed with ruffled peplums, but outerwear was bulky and odd, constructed from poufs of tulle. In the end, Viktor & Rolf were best at their most literal, closing the presentation with a sophisticated and simple strapless gown embellished with a fractured mirror appliqué. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Long & lean / Fitted / Column

Color: Black / White / Silver / Lemon / Tangerine / Peach / Pastel pink / Ice blue / Plum

Key Items: Carwash fringe skirts / Pleated column gowns & floor length skirts / Leather motorcycle vests / Draped silk blouses / Fitted t-shirts / Long sleeved pointelle knit tops

Materials: Lamé / Chiffon / Tulle / Satin / Leather / Silk / Jersey / Pointelle knits

Print + Pattern: Floral silhouettes / Bow graphics / Branded message graphics / Faces

Details + Trim: Bows / Sharp ruffles / Strong shoulders / Pleating / Appliqué / Pleated peplums / Mirror sequins / Sashes / Sequins / Satin patch pockets

Accessories + Footwear: Platform sandals / Cuff bracelets / Box clutches / Rhinestone bow necklaces


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