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Viktor & Rolf

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SHIRT TALES

Paris: Against-the-grain as they are, Dutch duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren must have gotten the memo to make over the men’s button-up shirt for spring. Whereas last season, the entire collection was piled on model Kristen McMenamy, this one featured multiple layers of shirts piled on each model, complete with nested collars and oversized French cuffs – a bit impractical for warm weather. Amidst the surrealist exercises, however, were legitimately wearable, fresh updates on the shirt.  A back capelet enlivened a high-low shirt, while off-the-shoulder collars and asymmetrical hems revamped breezy shirtdresses. Front panels of shorts and pants sewn onto shirtdresses presented a tongue-in-cheek interpretation on the offbeat new styling trend. The show closed with the duo’s trademark “bad” candy-colored prom dresses and larger-than-life wedding gowns created from papery starched shirttails. For the more modern bride (or starlet), a button-up shirt with a long train, in particular, had touches of the genius Viktor & Rolf showed in their tuxedo days, perfectly balancing the unconventional with the classic.

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