Viktor & Rolf


Paris: Known for their runway spectacles, the duo behind Viktor & Rolf created another memorable one for the archives. Dubbed the Glamour Factory, the show employed retired model Kristen McMenamy as a makeshift coat rack, with almost half the collection piled on her thin body. As each model walked out, McMenamy would shed a layer and the designers would dress the new model with the discards. Underneath the theatrics, however, were solid ideas and wearable pieces, such as anorak and tuxedo-inspired dresses and a coatdress shaped with zippered panels. Voluminous fur coats were a standout, done in midnight blue raccoon and plush fox fur. Most of the collection appeared in subdued black, the only pops coming from crystal embellishments, zippers-galore and both real and printed tweed textures. The designers commented that they wanted to show something extreme and wearable with this collection, and they perhaps succeeded a little too well on the latter. With all the glitz and “glamour” surrounding the show, the clothes delivered more of a light tap than the conceptual punch that we have come to expect from the fearless designers.
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