May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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ROMANCE + DECAY
Paris: Set against a somberly beautiful backdrop of wilting flowers in grey scale, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s latest collection seemed to explore the opposing forces of romance and decay. The first half of the show featured feminine details and a youthful attitude, while distressed effects characterized the second section. The designers set aside their typical tongue-in-cheek antics this time around, focusing instead on draping, gathering, and creative embellishments. In many of the first looks, the materials were pulled, folded, wrapped into the shape of bows. Who needs appliqués when you have skills like these? Intricate piecing, embroidery, beading, and fringe trim were used to create the later distressed-looking items. Hemlines were extra-short, but outsize volume and visual interest balanced them out. Though it was a departure from the label’s usual exuberant productions, this thoughtful offering had moments of poetic beauty that were truly sublime. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Asymmetrical volume / Dropped waist / Mini / Boxy / Fit-and-flare / Rounded / Long and lean
Color: Black / White
Key Items: Bow dresses / “Distressed” skinny pants / Gathered tops / Ruffled miniskirts / Jumpsuits
Materials: Jacquards / Crisp silks / Leather / Chiffon / Matte wool suitings / Fine-gauge yarns / Wool crepe / Stretchy jersey / Curly fur / Silk faille / Cloqué / Cotton shirtings
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Leaves
Details + Trim: Gathered bows / Pleats / Tiered ruffles / Peplums / Piecing / Beading / Embroidery / Fringe trim / Fabric appliqués / Self-belts / Bell sleeves / Mock turtlenecks
Accessories + Footwear: Minaudieres / Square-toe loafers / Ankle boots
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