May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Erdem Moralioglu wanted to focus his attention on “the way that certain decades look at other eras” and more specifically, “the 1960’s looking at Victoriana.” The combination of these ideas resulted in an overall aesthetic of Victoriana prim through a bright and youthful sixties lens – with just the right dosage of Moralioglu’s gothic oddities. High neck collars and Swiss white lace bibs finished slim, drop waist swinging 60’s silhouettes blooming with the designer’s signature florals. However, even his florals were not as they seemed; what looked like embroidery on one dress was actually digitally printed flowers, individually appliquéd onto the fabric. One of the most striking pieces was a dress in floral fil coupé, but not without a twist – the fil coupé was inside out and the lace bib was raw at the edge. It’s these sorts of visual plays where Erdem stands out – the unexpected finishes, the combination of the unusual – a sheer high-neck latex trench came covered in wildflower print whilst a shift in black leather bonded to pink satin was embellished with an oversize ruffle snaking around the dress. Erdem has mastered the art of dramatic decadence. – Anna Ross
Theme: Victoriana through a Sixties lens.
Key Items: Printed suit, Hi-ruff blouse, Latex trench, Drop-waist dress, Peplum blouse, Lace cropped shirt.
Colour: Gothic black, Prim white, Sapphire, Sunshine, Peony pink
Materials and Trims: Silk, Satin, Poplin, Leather, Latex, Neoprene, Lace, Fil Coupé, Tweed, Jacquard
Print and Pattern: Hyper-florals
Accessories and Footwear: Resin cat-eye sunglasses, Slip on loafer, Victorian boots
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