Milan: For fall, Donatella Versace trained her focus on daywear and separates instead of her signature eveningwear, a positive change of pace. The show opened with simple, military-inspired coats and dresses decorated with oversized gold buttons; it progressed to cocktail dresses with exaggerated shoulder details. Closer inspection revealed that the bodices of these dresses were seamed into geometric panels that framed the upper body. The highlight was a short, loose, flapper style dress with a huge turquoise swirl and fur collar. The looser silhouettes looked fresher, as did the pieces incorporating leather and exotic skin inserts. A fun, crystal-studded Medusa head bag made its runway debut and was very Versace a la Judith Leiber. Eveningwear was standard fare apart from the stunning, fully beaded silver gown with a draped back and feathered tail that closed the show. A little more of that glamorous Halston-inspired ease, and Donatella may be onto a winner next season.

Color: Navy / Black / Burgundy / Turquoise / Blood / White / Silver

Key Items: Military-inspired coats / Dresses with exaggerated shoulder detail / Short, loose graphic print dresses / Princess line coats and skirts

Materials: Mink / Fox / Wool / Snakeskin / Suede / Electric purple / cashmere

Print + Pattern: Exaggerated graphic prints / Tulip prints / Snake motif / Graphic seaming and boning

Details + Trim
: Oversize buttons / Highlighted pockets / Raised shoulder seams / Military style epilates / Feathers

Accessories + Footwear
: Snakeskin lace-up stiletto boots / Contrast stitching on footwear / Bucket shaped pony-hair bags with laced leatherwork / Quilted leather bucket bags / Oversize cocktail rings / Wide leather belts with military style buckles / Fox fur neckpieces / Suede T-bar stilettos

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