Milan: Last season’s return to classic Versace sexiness was tempered by simple shapes and a palette of pastels, but this season the collection seemed an unrestrained ode to the house’s archives. The show opened with an iridescent vinyl micro-mini, setting the seductive mood. Rocker-chick ensembles followed, with supple leather motorcycle jackets and matching flared capris that had been slashed and reconstructed with panels of suede and ribbed knit. The scissor-happy construction techniques worked best for asymmetric dresses with a high thigh slit; they looked edgy and cool while retaining the Versace aesthetic. Body-con knit dresses and cutaway skirts looked direct from the label’s early 90s heyday, while the wide-lapeled maxi coats worn over leggy minis captured a kind of Jane Fonda in Klute early 70s chic. Despite the déjà vu feeling that certain looks induced, the outerwear was outstanding — several featuring this season’s important fur or leather sleeves — and cropped biker jackets were some of the best versions seen on any runway so far. When the collection departed from all the aggressive slashing and hard edges, there were clean, curvy silhouettes in a dark, sophisticated palette, pointing toward a more relevant, pared-down approach for Donatella and the house her brother built.

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