Milan: This season, Donatella Versace revisited her brother Gianni’s final collection — a darker, moodier direction for the house, which was never further explored due to his death shortly after. The gothic theme played out in armor-like constructions, crucifix imagery, studded leather and chainmail. An all-black pallette emphasized the hard-core effect, and gained energy from punctuations of bright yellow and orange. Silhouettes were structured and shapely — corseted sheaths, molded coat-dresses, pencil skirts — and featured intricate piecing and seaming, while high necks and long sleeves lent a clerical feel. Jewels, plush astrakhan and skin-revealing cutouts lent an element of edgy glamour.  — Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Hourglass / Body-con

Color: Black / White / Nude / Caution Tape Yellow / Construction Zone Orange / Metallic Gold + Silver

Key Items: Crucifix turtleneck / Pencil skirt / Hourglass sheath / Fitted coat-dress

Materials: Silk / Wool / Leather / Chainmail / Astrakhan

Print + Pattern: Crucifixes / Thorny, tangled motif

Details + Trim: Studs / Leather appliqué / Jewels / Mixed material piecing / Trapunto stitching / Paillettes

Accessories + Footwear: Leather fishnet boots + gloves / Studded clutches / Double-buckle corset belts


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